Somen Debnath has chosen an unusual path in life, as he has spent the past 19 years embarking on cycling tours to 182 countries to spread a message of HIV/AIDS awareness, particularly to those in rural areas.
What began as a three-month trip in 2004 turned into a lifetime’s journey and he plans to start a museum and village in his native West Bengal, India, once he stops cycling.
It’s been a fascinating journey which has seen him robbed on no less than 28 occasions including a three-week spell in 2007 when he was detained by the Taliban.
He has also met with 72 prime ministers on his travels, but Somen, 40, believes that his most important work is simply to link common people with simple messages.
Earlier this week, he dropped by the Malaysiakini office to talk about his life of travel and grassroots activism.
“This started in May 2004 as a journey to spread HIV awareness. But as time has gone on, it has also become about spreading Indian culture and identity, and the message of love.
“I was born in Hinduism but I believe in humanity. There are many great communities out there and the key is to reach people. Some may start off very strict, thinking I have an agenda to spread religion or corrupt society, but if I communicate in simple ways I can reach them.
“Even the country’s leaders, usually when I meet them, their perspective is that they lead like a king to support their people.
“One day in North Macedonia, in the morning I had breakfast with a beggar and evening dinner in the presidential palace with the national leader Gjorge Ivanov. To me, it is the same when it comes to reaching people.
“I also learnt that if you are a guest, you cannot complain. You have no right to complain if you don’t like it,” Somen told Malaysiakini.
Getting started
A graduate in zoology, anthropology, and fine arts, he hails from Basanti, West Bengal. As a teenager, he underwent training at the West Bengal State AIDS Control Society and saw the need to spread the message of awareness and inclusion.
“It is my main intention to generate awareness among youths from 14 to 30 because that is a group with high-risk behaviours. I think this is a way to make an impact in society,” he recalled.
He said he did not feel any pressure from his family to conform to more orthodox lifestyle choices.
“In my family, we had freedom and independence. It is a middle-class family with different values and an approach to life as a dimension of love.
“I didn’t want to study, then get a job, marriage, bring up children, then die. I never wanted that life.
“Now, normally parents are cautious and curious about their children’s choices. At first, my father didn’t allow me to go on the cycling tour, but I convinced my mother to allow me to try it for three months.
“Then it became successful and people took an interest in what I was doing. In every place in India, I was meeting local authorities and the chief ministers and governors and sending photos back. So it was viewed positively by my parents,” said Somen, adding that both his brothers are married with children.
“We believe in the message of Gandhi, you must be the change you want to see in the world,” he said, referring to Indian nationalist and spiritual leader Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi.
Eventually, he travelled to 28 states and five union territories in India and in 2006, then external affairs minister Pranab Mukherjee flagged off his trip as he officially left India.
Since then, he has cycled for a total of 194,800km across 182 countries.
He did it in stages, covering 23 countries in Asia from 2007-2009, 50 countries in Europe from 2009-2012, 52 countries in Africa and eight countries in the Middle East from 2012-2015, and 48 countries in North and South America from 2015-2020.
“I have been lucky to see both the Arctic Circle and Antarctica. In fact, cycling in winter is not a big problem, I can go down to minus 50 degrees Celsius in places like Greenland and Iceland.
“In the Sahara, it was plus 50 and actually the hot weather is more difficult than cold,” said Somen who said his travels have also made him functional in nearly 10 languages including French, German, and Japanese.
Aside from travelling and meeting local people, he gives lectures in schools, universities, NGOs, and other institutions. He said he has been able to get by on charitable donations and sometimes company sponsors.
A range of obstacles
He said he learnt early on that travelling through the world alone comes with its own risks.
“I was robbed 28 times. What I came to understand is that when you have more (belongings) than others who are living miserable lives, this is the easiest way for them to get it. Most are either mentally disturbed or very needy and desperate.
“I remember that when I was in North East India in Assam province, they robbed me as I passed through a forest.
“One of them, I caught his hand and asked him if I could stay in his house as a guest. He shook me off, but I caught him again. Eventually, he brought me to his house.
“Next thing I knew, he gave me a city tour and food to eat. When I was leaving, he gave me everything back and 500 rupees to contribute to my work!” said Somen.
He said being robbed has happened so often that he has learnt to take it in his stride.
“Many times, in fact almost all times, it was at gunpoint. Nowadays, I start to smile when I see it coming, I just tell them to take whatever they want. And usually, quite quickly you can see their aggression go away.
“Most of the time it is not so bad, but three times they took my bicycle itself, my camera, hard disk, and money. Once, when I was robbed in Bulgaria, I was just carrying a lot of cash from donations so that was difficult,” he said.
He remembers his ordeal at the hands of Afghanistan’s Taliban regime to be the most challenging time.
“When I went to Afghanistan in 2007, it was not blindly. I did know there was danger and when I was in the Indian embassy in Kabul, they told me it was very difficult. I was only 23 years old. I thought to myself, whatever happens, happens.
“Soon, I was captured in a town called Herat. They knew I was from India and firstly they thought they could get some money from me, or for ransom. They also beat me because I didn’t understand their language.
“After a while, I offered to clean their houses and after about nine days, I said ‘Let me cook’. They were very happy when I made spicy curry with beef, which I made even though it’s considered a sacrilege among my people.
“But that’s how I convinced them and after 22 days they said we will let you go, but what will you tell people? I said I believe it is destiny that brought me here.
“They blindfolded me and dropped me away from the town. I became a fearless man after that experience. It was the turning point in my journey,” he said.
He was unable to make it into North Korea as he was supposed to go but contracted Covid-19 in China just prior to his planned entry.
“It is no problem as long as you have the correct documents which I always get from the Indian High Commission. Every country I get a note from an ambassador to explain my mission.
“Some countries are very restrictive. You cannot speak freely with people. It has to be through official channels.
“So my first intention is to share information with people like school teachers. Many wish to know about things like HIV but nobody can tell them,” said Somen.
He said he was in Malaysia for a month and wanted Malaysians to know how fortunate they were.
“I really like this country. It is multicultural, there is great food. On one street, in one corner you find a mosque then a temple then a church, all live in harmony.
“I find most people are quite open to talk to, and their human behaviour is very positive. In fact, Malaysia and Indonesia are some of my favourites of the countries I have cycled through,” he said.
Building a legacy
Eventually, he is planning to write a book about his adventures on the road. Another part of his legacy is that he plans to construct a creative global village in his hometown in India and dedicate it to international peace.
“When people give me things, I usually post them back home and this will go to a museum, especially for a kindergarten, to reach the younger generation and help them learn about the world.
“We already built a house called People’s House, for travellers to Calcutta to stay.
“Also every country I go to, I take a handful of soil for my universal garden, which I plan to grow in this global village, with ecological and sustainable land, where we can work together and share our ideas and positive thoughts.
“I never had an interest in government or politics. I believe that whoever is doing good should survive. But it is not my journey.
“The words ‘give up’ never come to me. This is the main importance of life, to find the balance through experience.
“I never think I will settle down. But because I am comfortable with the world around me, I think I am the most settled-down person I know,” said Somen. - Mkini
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