Hawkers, chefs and industry leaders back Chef Wan's call for structured learning and documentation to preserve Malay culinary recipes for future generations.
Restaurateur Arshad Kamarulzaman said a lot of heritage cooking knowledge still depended on generational transfer rather than formal documentation.
“It’s not that the younger generation is uninterested. They lack exposure,” he told FMT.
Arshad, who operates The Tamarra by Irama Dining in George Town, Penang, said entry barriers such as high start-up costs and manpower shortages deterred newcomers.
He said that if Malay heritage cuisine could be presented professionally and recognised as an attractive career, more young people would be drawn to learn it in depth.
Earlier this month, celebrity chef Redzuawan Ismail, better known as Chef Wan, said the overall quality of Malay heritage cuisine was on the decline due to a lack of experienced chefs skilled in heritage food and a drop in quality of such food sold by street vendors.
He called for the establishment of an institute to document and teach next-generation chefs how to cook Malay street food, to preserve and promote the community’s heritage cooking.
Zawawi Akee, who runs Awie Nasi Campur in Kampung Melayu, Air Itam, with his daughters, agreed that the issue was not a lack of interest among youngsters but the cost of entering the industry and learning heritage cooking in depth.
“Young people do have interest, but sometimes there is no opportunity,” he said, pointing to the cost of shop rentals, cooking equipment and prices of ingredients.
He said that if not for his existing stall, his daughters aged 18 and 20 would not have the opportunity to become involved in the industry.
Shangri-La Rasa Sayang Hotel communications director Suleiman Tunku Abdul Rahman said some form of formal exposure and structured mentorship could help kindle interest among youths.
He cited rising ingredient costs, time constraints and adaptation to modern tastes as factors that compromise authenticity. However, Suleiman said standards ultimately depended on operators’ understanding of and commitment to traditional cuisine.
Viral trends, change in tastes
Others interviewed by FMT voiced concern about shifting preferences and fading familiarity with traditional ingredients.
Che Intan Abdul Kader, a cook, said youths were increasingly drawn to viral food trends rather than traditional Malay food, citing a rise in the number of vendors selling gimmicky items like matcha-based products or food smothered in cheese.
She said these viral food items were often low in quality and unhealthy, but that youngsters were latching on to them to ride the wave of popularity.
“To me, local food plays a key role in tourism because each state has its unique identity which shines through its food,” she said.
Zainab A Rahman, who cooks at the Paya Terubong food complex, said many youngsters lacked knowledge of the ingredients used in traditional cooking such as lengkuas.
She said such ingredients were crucial to the essence and soul of Malay heritage cooking.
All those interviewed supported Chef Wan’s proposal to document Malay heritage recipes, including through an encyclopaedia, and to institutionalise formal training in the trade for future generations.
Malaysian Association of Hotels vice-president Khoo Boo Lim agreed with the suggestion but said its success would depend on leadership, governance and genuine passion.
He warned against starting an institution that would end up becoming defunct.
“If the person in charge is not efficient or committed, the institution will eventually face a slow death,” he said, adding that many younger cooks take shortcuts by replacing traditional ingredients with easier alternatives. - FMT
No comments:
Post a Comment
Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.