There have been mixed reactions to the Michelin Guide Kuala Lumpur and Penang 2023 which was unveiled on Dec 13.
Many see this as a huge honour for the local culinary scene, being recognised in the Michelin guidebooks which feature notable restaurants in places such as Europe and Japan.
However, social media is full of rants from angry foodies annoyed that their favourite establishments did not make the cut or who do not think the ones that did are as great as they are hyped up to be.
Some also accused the list of being too “Bangsar-centric”, in reference to the residential suburb in Kuala Lumpur known for expatriates and relative luxury.
In the recently released Malaysian guide, 97 restaurants were featured. Four received one Michelin star, while 32 were awarded Bib Gourmand - inspectors’ favourites for quality cooking at moderate prices - and three received special awards.
The restaurants awarded one Michelin star for their high-quality cooking are:
Dewakan (KL) - modern Malaysian dishes honouring provenance by using local and indigenous produce
DC by Darren Chin (KL) - French classics with an emphasis on regional live seafood and local produce in Kuala Lumpur
Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery (Penang) - Peranakan cuisine made from Chef Auntie Gaik’s secret recipes and quality produce
Au Jardin (Penang) - sophisticated European fare with subtle local twists
Three special awards were also given out. The Michelin Service Award went to Leanne Lim of Dewakan; Michelin Sommelier Award was given to Mahamad Hafiz Abdullah of DC by Darren Chin, and the Michelin Young Chef Award was given to Lim Yan You of Au Jardin.
“Our first selection in Malaysia highlights the diversity of cuisine on offer in Kuala Lumpur and Penang, reflecting the uniqueness of the country’s multi-ethnic culture in gastronomy,” said Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guide.
”This is just the beginning of Kuala Lumpur and Penang’s gastronomic journey. Our inspectors have been more than pleased by the new creations in Malaysian cuisine, the inheritance of traditional cooking and the evolution of various national cuisines.
“The vitality of a city such as Penang, which includes as many Bib Gourmand restaurants as the capital city, is pleasing and very encouraging for our inspection team, who is looking forward to exploring a lot more of Malaysia, and tasting the diverse offerings of local culinary talents,” Poullennec added.
Malaysiakini sought out the opinions of our local food writers to find out what they thought about the list.
Worldwide culinary map
Food writer Tiong Sue Lynn, who writes at the BangsarBabe blog, said: ”It’s great that the Michelin Guide has arrived in Malaysia as I feel our country has so much to offer in terms of culinary variants and our fine dining scene has improved tremendously over the years.
“As for the list that was announced, I’m sure the Michelin reviewers had their reasons for short-listing these food and beverage establishments.
“Food has always been a subjective and controversial debate amongst food lovers, so it’s natural to expect some backlash from the announcement as everyone has their personal favourites.”
Tiong has her personal favourites and feels there are other deserving restaurants out there that should have made the list.
“As to the list being too Bangsar-centric, I think it’s neither right nor wrong but a criterion by Michelin. But I feel they should have ventured slightly further from the city centre since the original concept of a Michelin guide is to travel for food.
“I’m sure the Penang list is even more controversial as there are more places that my friends (Penang locals) and I feel conflicted about since there are other more deserving spots,” she explained.
Tiong said the Michelin guide will put Malaysia on the worldwide culinary map.
“That’s a great accomplishment for Malaysian F&B and hopefully, we will get access to better produce and sustainable food sourcing.
“I just hope those restaurants won’t take this as an opportunity to hike up their prices unreasonably.”
‘Food is subjective’
Food writer Alice Yong who writes at Jom.Makan.Life believes the two Kuala Lumpur restaurants that received one Michelin star each deserve their ratings as they have received excellent reviews.
However, she said the one Michelin-star restaurants in Penang have mixed reviews depending on who you ask.
“I guess food is subjective. It’s a guide so people shouldn’t take it too seriously. We have used the Michelin guide to seek out some nice street food eateries in Bangkok. The high-end ones can be a hit-and-miss affair.”
She also pointed out that only a few Chinese restaurants were featured.
To the foodies out there who want something yummy, Yong suggested: “Stick to word-of-mouth recommendations or even Google reviews. Sometimes go on the ground and trust your own instincts or ask friends.
“Everyone’s taste buds are different so no restaurant fits all. However, people shouldn’t keep bashing the Michelin Guide. It does help to draw some gastro-tourists to Malaysia, be they street food lovers or high-end diners. In a way, it does help a little.”
Feeling conflicted
Meanwhile, food enthusiast and reviewer Zuan Arifin Ham (@therainbow_guy) said when he first heard about the Malaysian edition of the Michelin Guide, he was hopeful and excited to see which eateries will be listed.
“Now that it has been announced, I feel rather conflicted. I felt that some of the restaurants that were listed did not reflect the very best we have.
“While they are a few that indeed showcase the best we have, I was a bit disappointed with the local restaurants that served local dishes that were listed,” said Zuan who added that his circle of friends was also not too pleased with the featured outlets.
“This is because we all love our banana leaf, our chicken rice. It does make me ponder, whether those involved in coming up with the lists, search far and wide. Or were the restaurants featured based on someone’s recommendation?”
He hopes next year’s guide will be much better.
Perhaps a list that only covers two places - KL and Penang - may not be an accurate reflection of the culinary scene in Malaysia.
For what it is worth, the Michelin Guide does put us on the food map and hopefully, the list will be more extensive and more eateries offering local cuisine will get the spotlight. - Mkini
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