Perhentian revisited

The last time I visited Perhentian Island, off the Terengganu coast, was a decade ago. I remember the accommodation being very basic and inexpensive.

Everyone we met was friendly, helpful, and all tourists, whether domestic or foreign, were treated equally.

I always felt at an advantage because I spoke the local dialect, which often secured me a small discount.

At the time, there was no market segmentation; everyone came for the same reasons: to swim and snorkel, and to enjoy the beautiful underwater corals, teeming with colourful marine life.

Terengganu is blessed to have Perhentian, Redang, and many other islands off its coast. These are well-known marine parks that attract tourists from all over the world.

Boat operators

My boatman, Akram (not his real name), is one of many operators who take tourists out for snorkelling. He is a clever and hardworking young man who shared many stories about the place.

For many years Akram worked for another towkay, before deciding to invest all his savings into buying his own boat and outboard engine. The boat, purchased from a Dungun-based builder, cost him around RM25,000.

At RM50,000, the outboard engine cost him twice as much, and its purchase was financed under a scheme offered by the engine distributor. It would have cost Akram 25% less had he paid for it in cash, something he could not afford to do.

These days, he charges tourists RM70 each for a snorkelling trip that starts at 10am and finishes at 4pm, and includes a lunch stop at a fishing village.

Akram’s 26-foot boat can accommodate about 15 passengers, but it is rarely full due to stiff competition from the many other operators.

To supplement his income, he also does rubbish runs to Kuala Besut and back, collecting dry recycled waste from chalet operators for a small fee. This helps keep the island clean, and is one of the main reasons tourists keep returning.

Local economy

Tourism significantly boosts the local economy.

The local population – from the boat operators ferrying tourists between Kuala Besut and the islands of Perhentian Kecil and Perhentian Besar, to chalet operators, cafes, restaurants, fishermen supplying fish, food suppliers, laundry operators, and many others down the supply chain – are all well aware of the sector’s importance.

The demand for boats, for instance, has spurred the boat-building industry in Terengganu and increased job opportunities.

Every tourist visiting the island pays a RM10 marine park tax, presumably for maintenance, safe navigation and nature protection.

Additionally, there is an 8% sales and service tax (SST) on tourists staying on the island and on the food and beverages they consume. At its current rate of RM700 per night, the SST for a room alone amounts to around RM56.

With over a thousand rooms on these islands, most of which are fully occupied during the summer months, the revenue generated is significant.

I do not wish to calculate how much Putrajaya earns daily from the SST, but it cannot be an insignificant amount.

The question is, what happens to the taxes collected? Is the federal government reinvesting this revenue into improving the infrastructure and facilities here?

Largest group of foreign tourists

The so-called departure jetty at Kuala Besut is in poor and deplorable condition, and is congested.

There are no proper drop-off and waiting areas and no toilets in sight, let alone a terminal building for arriving and departing passengers. Passengers are left to wait in a dilapidated coffee shop littered with rubbish, which is not at all conducive.

And yet, this place caters to international tourists who spend thousands of ringgit supporting the local economy.

On this trip, I noticed many Spanish, French, Italian and Swedish speakers, along with scores of Japanese and Chinese tourists. However, there are no information boards or signs other than in Bahasa Melayu.

Perhentian probably hosts the highest number of foreign tourists per square mile compared to any other location in Malaysia today. The revenue generated here is massive.

The natural beauty of Perhentian has provided the local population with great opportunities to participate in and provide services to these foreign visitors. The economic benefits are commendable and require sustainable efforts.

However, the federal government must also play its part.

Despite the significant taxes collected, the infrastructure and facilities provided are poor and inadequate to make this place sustainable.

These days, there is even a new ultra-luxury five-star hotel on Perhentian Kecil. Guests are said to arrive on luxury yachts, amphibious aircraft, and even helicopters. This will surely provide new revenue streams for the government.

But I can only imagine how those new hotel guests would feel waiting at the non-existent Kuala Besut terminal.

Perhaps our tourism minister could pay a quick visit and see it for himself. - FMT

The views expressed are those of the writer and do not necessarily reflect those of MMKtT.