Harvesting birds’ nests, with crawlies and bats for company

Harvesters use ropes, rattan ladders and bamboo poles to reach the roof of the cave.

KOTA KINABALU: The inner chamber of the Simud Hitam (Black Cave), part of the Gomantong Caves system, is so huge and the ceiling so high that light from a normal torch is unable to illuminate the roof.

Upon stepping inside, visitors’ attention is immediately drawn to the back of the cave, where light filters in through the opening atop Gomantong Hill within which the cave lies.

It is one of the most photographed views of the Gomantong Caves. It is also the entrance to the other part of the Gomantong Caves system.

Once inside the Simud Hitam, it is impossible to miss the strong smell of ammonia. This is due to the cave’s ecosystem which consists of birds and bats whose droppings litter the floor.

At the back of Simud Hitam are the entrances to other caves within the Gomantong Caves system.

Visitors are advised to wear suitable shoes, a raincoat and a hat as sometimes bird droppings land on unexpected and unwanted places. A breathing mask would help, too.

The cave is also home to cockroaches which crawl up the walls and even scuttle along the handrails of the raised boardwalk.

The creepy crawlies, including giant centipedes and scorpions, number in the thousands and dwell mainly in the excrement left by birds and bats.

Occasionally, chicks fall out of their nests near the roof and are devoured by these critters as well.

The entrance to Simud Hitam has a lower roof.

It is generally an easy tour on the raised boardwalk that loops around the vast chamber, but extra caution is needed because the boardwalk could be slippery at times due to the buildup of moss.

The Gomantong Caves are situated in the district of Kinabatangan in Sandakan, within the 3,297-hectare Gomantong Forest Reserve Class IV.

Red leaf monkeys are easily found near the Gomantong Caves registration centre.

It is only a five-minute walk from the cave registration centre on a well-maintained boardwalk across a forest reserve which is home to wildlife such as the red leaf monkey and orangutans.

The main cave system is divided into two parts: the more accessible Simud Hitam and the larger Simud Putih which lies above. The names refer to the main type of nests produced by swiftlets in each cave.

A 30-minute vertical climb into Simud Putih where the precious white birds’ nests can be found.

Inside the caves, there are several huts where birds’ nests are kept before being brought out for processing. Workers take turns to guard the precious commodity.

“We have no choice. There are thieves willing to risk it all just to get some of these birds’ nests,” said Abduh, one of the birds’ nests collectors.

A few kg of white birds’ nests could fetch thousands of ringgit, depending on the market, he added.

The raised boardwalk within Simud Hitam is well maintained but can be slippery and roaches sometimes crawl on the floor.

To deter theft, the huts are guarded around the clock although this does not guarantee that nothing will be stolen.

According to Abduh, at least three companies have won the tender to harvest birds’ nests from the caves.

While many of the workers hired by the companies are locals from Kinabatangan and near the Gomantong area, there is also a large presence of outsiders, even foreigners, a situation which has caused unhappiness among the locals who have always claimed the industry as their own.

The nests collected in Gomantong, especially the white ones, are among the best quality birds’ nests in the world and can fetch very high prices.

The collection of birds’ nests in Gomantong is an ancient tradition, and locals have been trading these nests since at least 500AD.

“The cave is under the government’s care. The traditional way of harvesting did not give good returns, hence the tender system,” said Abduh.

Huts to keep birds’ nests are guarded around the clock to prevent theft.

The harvesting of birds’ nests in Gomantong takes place twice a year from February to April and July to September.

Abduh said the best quality birds’ nest are from the February harvest, which usually sees an increase in theft attempts.

The harvesters use rattan ladders, ropes, and bamboo poles to climb to the roof of the caves. Some climbs up the mountain in Simud Putih take more than 30 minutes.

“The last time we had an accident was about two years ago when a harvester fell off the ladder. He was immediately sent to the hospital but died upon arrival.

“We are not sure whether it was because of the fall or something else. He was in his 50s, so it could be anything,” he said.

Abduh, who is a local, said some people, especially politicians, had been urging the government to abolish the tender system and give the industry back to the people.

However, he does not think it is a good solution, particularly because the government needs the revenue from the industry.

Giving it back to the local community would not guarantee the same amount of revenue a tender system could give, he said.

“Perhaps another solution is to ensure that companies provide jobs for locals instead of hiring cheaper foreign labour. I don’t know if it would solve the theft problem because we don’t know if the thieves are locals.

“But it would certainly help the local economy and pacify the people here,” he said. - FMT